L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon--7/9/10

Ever since my last visit to L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Taipei, I couldn't stop thinking about my meal there. In fact, for a while, I found myself a little jaded and unimpressed by meals elsewhere. Nothing I ate could live up to the same level of execution or deliciousness. I got a little worried. Of course, in time I got over this and reminded myself of the importance of "eating something for what it is." I can't always expect to get perfection in a meal.

Thus, one of the first things I did upon arriving in Taipei, was begin composing an email to Chef Suga, letting him know I was back in town and ready for another meal at L'Atelier. Since my family and I had already experienced the Menu Decouverte, and my dad had revisited multiple times afterwards, we wanted something different and new. I asked Chef Suga if we could have the honor of him creating a special menu just for us, and to my delight, he agreed to do so.

What we received was an inspired menu composed of à la carte menu items and some of Chef Suga's newest creations that haven't even made it on the menu yet. As a result, there was no printed menu for referencing. Therefore, the description and titles given to these dishes are what I managed to deduce from the description given in Chinese by the servers. In a nutshell, I made these names up. Just trust me when I say, everything was absolutely delicious.

Also, these photos can't even begin to do these plates justice. Keep in mind I was still pretty jet lagged and, as the meal progressed, more than slightly tipsy off our bottles of champagne and wine. The restaurant also seemed to have installed a new display in their bar area--a summer seascape scene consisting of white pepper sand, star anise, and dyed pieces of edible fungus for anemone. Cute, but unfortunately it was either fluorescently lit or LED lit because it affected the quality of my photos. I find them a little overexposed :(

We began with the usual spectacular L'Atelier bread basket. This time, however, we had a different amuse. From what I understand, this is a very classic Robuchon amuse--consisting of a foie gras mousse, port wine gelée, and parmesan cheese foam. Served in a little shot glass, one little spoonful of this warm concoction was luxuriously rich and creamy. Definitely left me wanting more--which is exactly what you want in an amuse.

LE CAVIAR

Ossetra caviar and sea urchin in a tender consomée jelly with cauliflower cream

The sweet, creamy sea urchin suspended in what tasted like a seafood consomée was only elevated by the salty bursts of caviar. All together, not only a beautiful dish to look at--with its perfectly spaced, micro-piped green dots--but also a light flavorful start to the meal.

L'AMAEBI*

fresh tomato, capellini angel hair pasta, dried mullet fish roe

This was the first of Chef Suga's creations we had that night. It was unlike any other pasta dish I've ever had. I watched at he put an immersion blender to a bright red sauce, as he had a taste of it with a plastic spoon, tossed the spoon, slightly wrinkled his eyebrows, sprinkled a little of what I assumed to be salt, and immersion blended it again. I watched as he carefully wound a mound of long thin strands of pasta around a fork and laid it on a plate. It was only later, with my first bite, that I realized this pasta dish was delightfully cold. The bright red sauce tasted like a sauce of fresh tomatoes--uncooked. The pasta was just al dente and the amaebi shrimp sweet and supple. The crowning touch--salty slivers of dried mullet fish roe from Taiwan.

L'ASPERGE BLANCHE*

white asparagus, San Daniele ham, summer truffles

The thick, meaty pieces of tender white asparagus bathed in a light, creamy sauce were enough to make me swoon. Add in the paper thin slices of salty proscuitto and fragrant summer truffles from France and I was powerless to stop the silly grin spreading across my face.

L'UNAGI*

foie gras, baby arugula, apple purée

Eel, foie gras, apple, arugula--the same exact ingredients found in this dish I had at a Hatchi BreadBar dinner except this time, it was executed a million times better. Thus, this dish, to me, was the perfect example of how the same ingredients can either work harmoniously or fall short of perfection. Needless to say, the ingredients in Chef Suga's version worked together so harmoniously, they could've been singing Handel's Messiah. This dish also represented an exercise in restraint and subtlety. While the unctuous foie gras and oily eel needed the sweet, tart contrast of the apple purée, it was only sweet enough to serve it's purpose. Taken with a bite of foie, eel, and bitter arugula, the purée didn't scream apple, but it was enough to balance the bite.

LE SAINT PIERRE

steamed pomfret with clam jus sautéed leeks and seaweed butter

Another beautifully plated dish--served underneath a porcelain dome so that when lifted, the wonderful aroma of the briny clam broth hits your senses. The vibrant, colorful vegetables cooked in the clam broth were not only appealing to look at, but also cooked perfectly. The steamed pomfret was amazingly tender and flakey--a perfect blank canvas for the flavors of the broth and other garnishes such as the lightly fragrant celery leaves, salty bits of olive, and what I assumed to be a piece of sweet roasted red bell pepper.

LE CANARD

spice roasted duck breast with sautéed ginger leeks

I believe this dish is on the à la carte menu, though I'm not completely sure the description is of what I ate. There were indeed slices of duck breast and leeks, but were they "ginger leeks?" Not sure. All I know is, this is probably my favorite preparation of duck breast EVER. I always order duck if it's on the menu, but I've never had duck this tender at such a beautiful medium rare temperature. I watched, appalled, as my mom took the skin off her pieces of duck breast. Deliciously spiced, and slightly sweet, the skin was one of the best parts! The leeks I didn't love because, in general, I don't love leeks. The turnips were surprisingly pleasant, though I was too absorbed in the duck breast to really appreciate their presence. Finally, I will say, I actually enjoyed the pomme purée a lot more this time. I still couldn't finish it though--it was just too much butter on my conscience.

LE PÊCHE

peach liquor granita, wild strawberries, peach

A refreshing pre-dessert, I liked this preparation a lot more than the one I had last time. The peach liquor granita was fragrantly boozy, with the strawberries and chunks of peach probably also having absorbed a good amount of this liquor. Topped off with a sprinkling of what I can only deduce to be freshly cracked black pepper, it was definitely a nice shot glass of palate cleanser in preparation for MORE dessert :)

LE PAMPLEMOUSSE

grapefruit segments, grapefruit foam, milk ice cream, basil mint sorbet

This dessert is best described in one word: refreshing. Served in a decently-sized glass cup, the bottom layer was composed of a gelée of Taiwanese yuzu--comparable to the flavor of a Southern California Oro Blanco grapefruit. Inside the gelée, there were segmented pieces of fresh grapefruit. The combination of grapefruit, basil, mint, and milk worked surprisingly well. This is one dessert that, while satisfying, won't weigh you down.

LE VIOLET

saffron honey mousse, violet, wild strawberries, lychee, port gelée, pomegranate, vanilla sauce, milk ice cream.

Although I've had a similar dessert from this L'Atelier, I still can't surpress the excited squeal that escapes my mouth every time I see one of these sugar spheres. I just can't resist the crackly, crunchy sugar shards that intermingle with the creamy mousse and fresh fruits once you break open the perfect sphere. The quenelle of cold milky ice cream is just as welcome as always, and the pieces of port gelée added not only a different texture, but a deeper flavor component. My happiness in devouring this sugar sphere hit a climax when I chanced upon the pieces of fresh, fragrant lychee fruit.

Outside the beautiful Bellavita that houses L'Atelier here in Taipei with my wonderful parents. I'm so lucky they love food almost as much as I love food!

All in all, another wonderful experience at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon in Taipei. I can't imagine a fantastic meal more suitable for the humid, summer heat currently enveloping the city of Taipei. The progression of cold plates to hot plates could not have been handled more expertly, and we left the meal feeling full and satisfied but also feeling light and lifted. Chef Suga's newest dishes (denoted with an *) were not only creative, but also executed perfectly--not an easy feat. Anyone can be creative, but only some are skillful enough to realize their creations.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon (Lunch)

After having such a spectacular dinner at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon, I could only wait three days before the urge to return became unbearable. Thus, my mom and I braved the gloomy overcast Taipei sky and misting rain on a Friday afternoon for lunch. We didn't have a reservation but we were promptly seated at the "bar." The concept of each L'Atelier is similar to that of a sushi bar but instead of watching a single sushi chef, those sitting at the bar are lucky enough to have a close-up view of the entire open kitchen. As we settled into our seats, I immediately noticed that Chef Yosuke Suga was in the kitchen that day. Not gonna lie, I was a little giddy.

After nearly six years of working alongside Robuchon, Yosuke Suga opened the Toykyo outpost of L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon as Executive Chef in 2003. Then in 2006, Robuchon brought the 30-year-old Suga to the United States to open another L'Atelier in New York's Four Seasons Hotel. Robuchon obviously trusts this man to be at the helm of his newest endeavors. In 2009, as Robuchon began assembling some of his best staff to ensure a seamless opening for his newest venture in Taiwan, Suga was once again named the Executive Chef. If that is not impressive, I don't know what is.

While Suga obviously has had extensive training in French cuisine, his dishes at L'Atelier are permeated with Japanese influences. All his dishes are elegant and complex yet understated, perhaps as a result of the interesting juxtaposition of French complexity and Japanese simplicity. Suga is known for steering away from heavy combinations of meat and traditional French sauces--rich in butter and cream--and leaning towards the use of herbs and light broths. Thus, his dishes as light, yet retain an intricate layering of flavors--as evident in the dishes I had already had.

I watched as he scrutinized and evaluated every dish before it was sent out. Everything he did was meticulous and methodical as he added finishing touches on dishes, spooned on generous amounts of caviar, and sliced wheels of imported french cheese. Under his watchful eye, his crew followed in the same precision as they each went about their jobs. It was amazing to watch the flurry of activity in the kitchen, yet feel the calm in the atmosphere. This was not organized chaos. This kitchen was just organized.

You could tell that Chef Suga is very serious about his work, yet there was a certain charm to him. I overhead him asking what the people sitting next to us (some of his acquaintances) wanted for lunch and jokingly offering chou dou fu (Taiwanese stinky tofu) with a silly grin on his face. I don't think they got the joke but I was trying hard not to laugh.

My mom and I chose to lunch on the Menu Club. It consists of four courses with three different choices for each course. Of course, my mom and I chose something different for each course. Everything was just as spectacular.

MENU CLUB [NT2580]

L'AMUSE BOUCHE

The same as the one we had at dinner and it was still just as good. The pieces of chicken in the steamed egg custard are so tasty and I love the wasabi foam.

1st course:

L'AUBERGINE

en caviar au thon confit et son onctueuse crème d'avocat

This dish is so beautifully plated it looks like a piece of abstract artwork. Underneath the vibrant green avocado cream dotted with pieces of tuna and crispy croutons is a layer of a creamy tuna salad like mixture. The bright red orange dollop of tomato puree on the side of the bowl not only provided a beautiful contrast in color but also a nice tart foil to the creamy avocado and tuna. I only got a bite of this but the bite I had was pretty damn good.

L'OEUF FERMIER

frit sur une salade aux gésiers confits aux noix a la vinaigrette framboise

Gizzards are one of my favorite offals, only coming second to tripe. This salad of nice chewy duck gizzard, topped with a perfectly fried egg could not be more perfect for me. The rich runny yolk of the egg mixed with the tart vinaigrette and sweet crunchy walnuts complemented the savory gizzards so well. I loved it although the generous size of it made me a little too full.

2nd course:

LE FOIE GRAS

en ravioles dans un consommé d'herbes et sa crème pimentée

I have been wanting to try this dish for the longest time--they serve it at other L'Ateliers--and it definitely lived up to my expectations. The little raviolis burst into the distinct creamy flavor of foie gras upon the first bite. The light broth was topped with a fragrant combination of fresh herbs that I think included a chiffonade of shiso leaves. In my opinion, it didn't even need the crème fraîche that came on the side. I must've had on some ridiculous face of pure enjoyment because my mom told me to compose myself--the kitchen staff was looking.

LA SAINT-JACQUES

la noix dorée dans un velouté de navet a l'huile vierge

The creamy velouté had a wonderful hint of butter that complemented the sweet scallop. The drizzle of extra virgin olive oil added a delicate fruity layer. The scallop was perfection. SO sweet and tender and so lightly seared that it was nearly raw, it was the best piece of scallop I'd ever had. I'm lucky my mom loves me and saved half of it for me. I don't know if I would've had the self-control to not eat the entire thing once I had a bite of it.

3rd course:

L'AMADAI

cuit en écailles dans une nage au yuzu et bulbes de lys

Another beautiful plate. The scales were left on the skin of the fish but it was fried to a crisp so that the entire thing was edible. The white flesh of the fish was so tender and flaky, and the yuzu broth was so light, I should've stolen a few more bites.

LE COCHON DE LAIT

caramélisé aux fèves et oignon nouveau au lard fume

At dinner a few nights before, I noticed an entire suckling pig roasting in the kitchen. It was actually quite a sight and I'm sorry I didn't take a picture of it. We had asked the waiter what dish it was for and I had resolved to try it next time. This was the dish. It was sublime. The meat was so tender and so flavorful from the roasted fat of the pig drizzling back onto itself on the spinning rotisserie. The skin was perfectly crispy...nothing's better than crispy pork skin. And the fava beans were so buttery and sweet. Just thinking about it is kind of making me drool. It was SO GOOD.

4th course:

LE TENDANCE CHOCOLATE

crémeux au chocolat araguiani, sorbet cacao

The chocolate mousse was so creamy and just chocolatey. It was pure decadence. The pistachio and chocolate crumbles underneath added a nice layer of textures and the milk foam tempered the richness a little bit. It's the perfect dessert for chocolate lovers.

LE DESSERT DU JOUR

île flottante

I rarely order île flottantes. I don't usually like foamy meringues floating on a some sea of liquid. However, I was at L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon. I knew I'd be getting something far from a boring pile of meringue. I was right. This dessert was amazing. The meringue was baked so that the outside was crunchy and the inside still light and fluffy. It was topped with a deliciously tart red berry sauce and a crunchy cooked sugar drizzle. The milk ice cream and light creme anglaise were also a great complements. Overall, it was just a delightful dessert and a great fruity way to end a meal.

LE CAFE EXPRESS

et son macaron

The macaron of the day was mango. I love mangos. I love macarons.

Before we left, I asked for a signed copy of the menu. We also got to have a little conversation with Chef Suga himself. He asked me where I was from. I said that I go to school at UCLA, and then he said something wonderful. He said he'll be visting soon...he wants to open his own restaurant in LA. Please, please, please let that be true! LA would be lucky to have a chef as talented as him. Then, in true Japanese fashion, he walked us out the restaurant and to the elevators so that as the elevator door was closing, I was left with the image of Chef Suga and the wonderful meals I had in Taipei's L'Atelier.

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon--Taipei

5th floor, Bellavita luxury department store

28 Songren Rd

tel: 02-8729-2628

When I heard that Joël Robuchon--currently the most decorated Michelin starred chef in the world--was opening his latest restaurant in Taipei last November, I immediately called my dad and asked if it was true. It was. The next question was, "Can we please eat there the next time I'm in Taipei?" We can. We did.

For the opening of his newest restaurant, Robuchon assembled some of his best staff from his other restaurants. Robuchon has restaurants in Hong Kong, Las Vegas, London, Macau, Monaco, New York City, Paris, Tokyo, and now Taipei with a total of 25 Michelin stars between them. The executive chef at the Taipei L'Atelier is currently Yosuke Suga--previous executive chef at the New York City L'Atelier. Although the night we had dinner happened to be Chef Suga's night off, the meal was still phenomenal. On a subsequent lunch visit, I met the chef himself...but that's for another post ;)

Our dinner at L'Atelier was everything I had hoped it would be. Being the meal that I was most highly anticipating during our trip to Taipei, it had a lot to live up to. Every dish was above and beyond what I was expecting--with only the flavor outdoing the presentation. Plate after plate of beautiful dishes arrived in perfect timing.

The champagne and wine that my dad brought with him only elevated the meal even more. We had a bottle of 2000 Dom Perignon that was the perfect start. I am only now realizing how rare and amazing the 2001 Chateau d'Yquem Sauternes we had was. My dad had told me it earned a full 100 points in Wine Spectator but it didn't really register in my mind at the time. I really wish I knew more about wines so that I could fully appreciate them. I knew it was delicious and the best sweet wine I've ever had but only after research do I now know that

"For centuries Yquem has been unchallenged as the finest example of Sauternes and the most famous sweet wine in the world. A dramatically rich wine of dizzying complexity and extravagant depth, it is capable of aging effortlessly for several decades."

...I need to call my dad...and thank him again.

LE PAIN

We started off with the most amazing basket of bread. There must've been at least seven different varieties including croissants, miniature baguettes, and a pain de epi studded with smokey lardons. They were all perfect and delicious. Just the variety itself was satisfying. I loved that they were all in miniature form. I was able to try at least a bite of every kind without being too full for the rest of the meal.

L'AMUSE BOUCHE

Steamed Egg Custard with Chicken, Wasabi Foam

The little glass it came it was piping hot and the texture of the custard was basically identical to that of a Japanese chawanmushi. There were bits of chicken that provided a nice little surprise. The custard mixed with the wasabi foam created a wonderful sensation in the mouth--with the wasabi providing just the right amount of it's characteristic heat.

and then the meal really started...

Menu Decouverte [NT 5,880]

Degustation Menu

LE CRABE

Spiced crab meat with red bell pepper mousse and tomato water jelly

So beautifully presented. When they lifted off the gold-leafed glass dome of the little bowl I swear I let out a little gasp of delight. The servers cleverly reminded us that the tiny pearl sitting on the rose petal is strictly ornamental--not for eating. The red bell pepper mousse was distinctly just that but not so much that it overpowered the incredibly sweet pile of crab meat. We were advised to just dig straight down into the bowl to get a little bit of everything on the spoon at the same time. It was sound advice. Each bite was delicious.

LA DAURADE

Fresh herbs mixed with seabream and scallop tartare topped with cavier

Again the presentation took my breath away. The caviar provided a nice briny saltiness, the cucumber a subtle crunch, and the yogurt sauce a nice creaminess, although the seabream and scallop tartare was already perfectly seasoned on its own. The purple leaves--I'm assuming they are radicchio sprouts--provided an interesting peppery and bitter bite. Such a perfectly light, yet rich dish.

LES HUITRES

Cream of cauliflower soup with pancetta wrapped Breton oyster

The soup course started turning on the richness factor a little more. The cauliflower soup was delightfully creamy. The single piece of charred cauliflower was perfectly cooked--not at all mushy. I saved the pancetta wrapped oyster for my last bite and it was sublime with the black truffles. The juicy oyster burst in my mouth and the salty pancetta only made the oyster that much sweeter. Delicious.

LE HOMARD

Seared lobster with stewed morel and asparagus

I love lobster--especially well-cooked lobster. Overcooked lobster can be the worst. The morsel of meat inside the claw was amazing--slightly undercooked but perfectly so. The tail meat had more of a chewy texture but also delightfully so. It was so sweet and tasted like the ocean. Again, the preparation was light and not at all heavy. The morels imparted a surprising, yet nice, woody flavor to the dish.

LE BOEUF DE KOBE

Australian Strip-loin steak with foie gras, slow-cooked daikon, and miso-ginger sauce

This is one of the best preparations of hot foie gras I've ever had. The pairing of the rich liver with a simple piece of sweet daikon is genius. Eaten together, the daikon cuts the richness of the foie gras and makes it perfect. Top it off with some truffles and I'm speechless. The piece of steak was also perfectly cooked. I asked for medium rare and a beautiful medium rare was what I got. It was wonderfully marbled--it cut like butter and melted in my mouth like butter. However, I will have to say I am not at all a fan of Robuchon's famous pomme puree. The pureed potatoes tasted too much like butter and overpowered the dish it was only supposed to accompany. The only bite I took was the bite in the picture.

LE FROMAGE

Selection of fine imported French cheese

I can't remember the names of the cheeses. The server presented them in Chinese and I can't remember what they said at all. The blue cheese might've been some kind of Roquefort? I'm not sure but they were both nice and pungent and paired well with the nut and raisin studded bread they were presented with. We also enjoyed the Sauternes with the cheese.

LE PARFUM DES ILES

Passion fruit mousse with run granite and coconut foam

I always enjoy the flavor of passion fruit and this was no exception. The coconut foam was also very nice. However, the run granite was a little too strong for me. Eaten all together, this was like a miniature tropical frozen cocktail in a shot glass--appropriately entitled "the flavor of the islands"

LE SUCRE

Red berry sugar sphere with milk ice cream and blackberry sauce

This dessert was truly a work of art. I couldn't stop marveling at the delicate sugar sphere. I had no idea from the description in French that this was what we were going to get. Afterwards, I saw some photos on the internet of similar sugar spheres but with other flavors from other Robuchon restaurants. Perhaps it's one of his signature desserts? Anyways, once I worked up the courage to break the sphere, I was rewarded with a delicious berry cream/foam and fresh, perfect specimens of berries. The crunchy texture of the sugar pieces with the creamy berries and cold milk ice cream was a perfect combination of textures and flavors. The milk ice cream tasted literally like frozen milk--it was not overly sweet or creamy. So orgasmically good.

LE CAFE EXPRESS

Coffee and pistachio macaron

The pistachio macaron and Americano coffee ended a perfect meal. Robuchon's macarons are divine! We sat there enjoying the little macaron--completely satisfied and awed.

The bathroom was almost as nice as the restaurant...

My signed menus were printed on shimmery gold paper and tied with a black Robuchon ribbon. Luckily Chef Suga stopped by to check up on things on his day off and was able to sign the menus for me :)

This meal was spectacular not only in terms of flavor and presentation, but also the atmosphere and service. We were able to enjoy the food and each other's company so much throughout the meal. A meal is not just about the food itself--it's the whole package, and this is definitely a meal that will remain in our family memories for years to come.