Providence

Providence was at the top of my L.A. restaurant dream list. Even before the amuse bouche hit my lips, I knew I would love Providence. It was everything I loved in a restaurant--intimate setting, impeccable service, amazing fresh seafood, talented pastry chef...of course, the restaurant's two Michelin stars also made me that much more excited.

Two things happened in June: 1) my sophomore year at UCLA came to an end and my parents were in town to help me move out of the dorms and 2) Providence was having their 5-year anniversary special of 5 courses for $65.

It was meant to be. I would finally be able to enjoy at meal at Providence.

Providence

5955 Melrose Avenue

Los Angeles, CA 90038

tel: 323-460-4170

bread service

bacon brioche, white roll

The bacon brioche had the delicious smokiness of bacon, but the texture was a little too fluffy for me. I enjoyed the plain white roll a lot more. It had a nice crusty crust and a chewy, yeasty center. A piece of the bread, smeared with butter, and a sprinkling of sea salt (served with that adorable miniature scoop) and I'm a happy girl.

amuse bouche

gin and tonic gelée, margarita spherification, house cured Tasmanian ocean trout on top of lemon jelly with 4 spice whipped cream and 24 carat gold leaf

The gelée tasted exactly like a gin and tonic and was delicious with a squeeze of lime. The margarita spherification also tasted exactly like a margarita, complete with a spoon rimmed with coarse salt. The ocean trout served in a shot glass was the best bite of the bunch. The trout was deliciously fresh and the lemon jelly sweetly acidic. Digging a spoon straight down into the shot glass resulted in a bite of a delectable combination of salty, sweet, and acidic with the texture of raw fish interspersed with crunchy bits of toasted rice balls and salty bursts of fish roe.

japanese kanpachi (kagoshima, japan)

crispy rice crackers, coriander, soy crème fraîche

Who knew sashimi could taste so good? First of all, the fish was incredibly fresh--with a deliciously supple texture and literally the essence of freshness and of the sea. The soy crème fraîche with the raw fish was a revelation. Slightly creamy, it elevated the mouthfeel of the kanpachi to a whole new level. The rice crackers not only provided a nice contrast in texture, but also had the flavor of toasted rice.

bobby's block island scallops

japanese eggplant, rhubarb, cashews, reduction of vadouvan and jurançon

Perfectly cooked scallop--beautifully caramelized, yet still slightly rare and translucent in the middle, it was sweet and succulent. The flavors in this dish reminded me of India and curry--probably as a result of the vadouvan. I also enjoyed the scattering of toasted cashew pieces and the flavor of mint throughout the dish. Although it was only one scallop, it was extremely satisfying.

spaghetti alla chitarra [$26 supplement]

santa barbara sea urchin, spot prawn, pea tendrils

This was the one supplement we added to our 5 course tasting menu and we shared one order between the three of us. I cannot resist freshly made pasta. Nor can I resist sea urchin and spot prawns. Obviously we had to have this. It was a nice addition to our meal. The al dente pasta was swimming in a luxuriously rich sauce made from sea urchin and spot prawn heads and eggs. Occasionally we would stumble across a piece of pea tendril and we'd get a little bit of vegetal sweetness. There were still intact piece of uni mingling with the pasta and the spot prawns were so sweet and snappy.

wild day-boat pacific halibut (sitka, ak)

summer squash, black olive, dried apricot, basil

I enjoyed this halibut a lot, but my parents were a little less impressed. I think it's because we were served the rich pasta before this lighter course came out. I would've flipped the two dishes around. However, I do think this was a remarkable preparation of a normally dry and boring white fish. I would never voluntarily order halibut if I had other fish options, but this halibut was great. Barely cooked through, it was tender and moist with interesting accompaniments. The apricot, black olive and zucchini relish on top was slightly sweet, as well as the tomato compote underneath. The basil bread crumbs in combination with the spring onions, basil butter sauce gave the entire dish a decidedly Italian, yet innovative flavor profile.

marcho farms veal tenderloin (franconia, pa)

sweet peas, bacon, almond, maitake mushrooms

Veal is another protein that, give other options, I would not necessarily gravitate towards. I tend to think of veal as slightly boring in taste and texture. This veal, however, changed my mind completely. Cooked for two hours at 140 degrees, it was pleasingly tender. The bacon added a smokey aspect to the dish, and the maitake a deep, earthy, "umami" complement. The double shelled sweet peas were not only a perfect example of the level of intricacy in Providence's dishes, but also a fresh counterpoint to the more robust flavors in the dish. The dollops of the slightly sweet almond milk confused us in a good way, and the blanched almond slivers were at that delightful point between crunchy and less crunchy from being in sauce. The green herb, apparently, was pruslane--an herb I had never tasted nor heard of before. Overall, an interesting dish that caused us to really question and evaluate the flavors we were tasting.

yuzu curd, meringue

blackberry sorbet, jasmine

Finally, we were at dessert. I had high expectations of Adrian Vasquez's creations and he did not disappoint. I loved this dessert. It was perfect--from the delightfully tart yuzu curd, to the fragrant jasmine blackberry sorbet and buttery streusel crumbs. The only thing I found to be a little boring were the meringues. They didn't provide too much of a textural enhancement, nor did they offer anything in terms of flavor. However, I still enjoyed them because I can never say no to meringues. I thought the clean, bright-tasting flavors of this dessert was the perfect closing to a wonderful meal.

mignardises

chocolate marzipan, banana caramel, nougat

I was less impressed by Providence's selection of mignardises. I thought Sona put out a much more innovative and delicious offering. The chocolate marzipan were alright and tasted exactly how you would expect them to. The banana caramel were nothing special and the nougat actually tasted a little weird to me. Still, I always get a little excited by mignardises.

In all honesty, Providence was the best meal I've had in L.A. so far this year. It was simple, yet complex. Each dish was intricately prepared and had us scratching our heads trying to figure out what exactly it was we were tasting, however, the freshness of the ingredients and their inherent flavors still shined through. I had been scared that my palate had become jaded, that nothing could really make me have that eye-widening moment of "mmmm," but Providence reassured me that there are still delicious and impressive meals out there waiting to be had.

*We also had the wine pairing with the tasting menu, and it was one of the best pairings I've had to date. The wines and the dishes complemented each other so well. I chose not to include it in my review because 1) I didn't get great pictures of the wines and 2) I'm a lot less skilled in my descriptions of wines...but I'm working on it :) Basically, what I'm trying to say is, get the wine pairing!

Pismo's Coastal Grill

Pismo's Coastal Grill recently opened in Fresno. Before Pismo's, the only option we had for seafood was Red Lobster. I have nothing against Red Lobster (I love those cheddar biscuits) but Pismo's is really something special. For the first time, you can actually find a raw oyster bar in Fresno. I don't think I've ever seen a plate of fresh oysters in Fresno before this past weekend. Even better, the oysters were fresh. They also have a "fish market" within the restaurant. Although, I have to say I wasn't impressed with the fresh fish they had in the display case but the food that came out of the kitchen was pretty damn tasty.

My first impression of Pismo's was this: good-tasting food in hefty american portions. The salads are HUGE. However, the unexpected surprise was the flavor of the food. Although the portions were not delicate, the flavors were. The salad was not just a bunch of vegetables carelessly thrown together. Everything had been carefully prepared. The cioppino I had on a previous visit featured a delicately flavored broth with perfectly cooked seafood. In a dish like cioppino it's easy to, for example, overcook the mussels while undercooking the scallops. However, Pismo's managed to bring out a steamy iron pot of cioppino that impressed me.

That being said, Pismo's is still a relatively new restaurant and although the service was decent, there were some obvious kinks that still needed to be worked out. Luckily, both times that I went, we were served our food rather quickly. However, I've heard of other people complaining of slow service. Also, one of my pet peeves is being served hot food first when raw oysters were ordered. We were served fried oysters before raw oysters. It should definitely be the other way around. Other than that, my dining experience was pretty good.

Pismo's Coastal Grill

7937 N. Blackstone Ave.

Fresno, CA 93711

(559)439-9463

Oysters on the Half Shell [$7.99]

half dozen, cocktail sauce, horseradish, mignonette

There were nice and briny Fanny Bay oysters, not too creamy, that exceeded my expectations in freshness. They were also expertly shucked and a very good deal at only $7.99 for a half dozen. That's a deal that would be hard to find in LA...

Clam Chowder [cup $3.99, bowl $4.99]

It's certainly not the best clam chowder I've had, but it's not bad either. The restaurant is still having problems with consistency--the first time I went it was a little thick, the second time it was a little looser with nice distinguishable pieces of clam

Fried Oysters [$10.99]

green olive tapenade

The salty, briny green olive tapenade with capers and fruity olive oil was the highlight of this appetizer. It was pleasant and expertly fried but I could have been eating fried anything. It's not noticeable that it was oyster.

The Albacore Salad [$10.99]

house poached tuna, romaine lettuce, picked red onions, green beans, tomatoes, kalamata olives boiled Yukon potatoes, hard egg, and dijon vinaigrette

The picture does not do this salad justice. The size of this salad was MASSIVE! And more than worth the $11! It was enough to probably last me three meals and I'm a big eater. The humongous size of this salad also led to its less appealing appearance. However, don't let that fool you. This was easily one of the best salads I've ever had. There was so much going on but every ingredient was carefully prepared and taken care of. The green beans were mandolined...mandolined. Who does that? They also seemed lightly picked which was delicious. Also pickled were the red onions which definitely made the salad. They were perfectly sweet and sour with just the right amount incorporated in the salad so that you get a little bit with every bite without it being overpowering. The poached tuna is nice and the potatoes were delicious after soaking up some of the dressing. I almost forgot the boiled egg pressed through a strainer to get that crumbly texture. It added a much needed richness to a light and delicious salad. Needless to say...I love this salad!

Ultimate Combo Louie [$17.99]

jumbo prawns, shrimp, dungeness crab, louie dressing, hard egg, gherkin garnish

This was also a ginormous salad. Similar in composition to the albacore salad but with a different dressing on the side. I don't have much to say about this other than the seafood was very fresh. I stuck with my albacore salad. It was large and tasty enough to keep my attention and wandering fork to myself.

Beach Burger [$12.99?]

Cheddar, sauteed mushrooms, caramelized onions

This burger was deliciously juicy although I only got to steal two bites. The menu indicated that the beef used involved some kind of Kobe beef...I don't know if it was actually Kobe beef but it was definitely tasty and juicy and beefy. The sauteed mushrooms were also delicious. I don't know what part of this burger makes it a "beach" burger but overall, a solid standard burger.

Given Fresno's lack of really outstanding restaurants, I have to say that Pismo's Coastal Grill is a great new addition. I might hop on a train and go home right now just for one of those salad. If you ever find yourself stuck in Fresno for some reason, and happen to be in the mood for some seafood, treat yourself to one of the better meals in town and go to Pismo's.

Chilean Sea Bass with Pea Tendrils

I had leftover broth from the mussels I made the day before. The broth was too delicious to just pour down the drain. I had just enough to cover a beautiful fillet of chilean sea bass. Into a saute pan it went. After bringing the broth up to a simmer, I placed the 7 oz piece of fish in the pan and let it cook for 7 minutes--one minute per ounce. Simply poaching the sea bass in such a delicate broth resulted in a pure, untainted piece of gorgeous fish. There was nothing to mask its fresh sweetness.

I paired it with some young, tender pea tendrils that were simply sauteed with some garlic and salt. Simple perfection.

Green-Lipped Mussels

On this rainy day, I have nothing to do but contemplate the female sexuality. I am trapped in a room with no kitchen and only Sleeping Beauty and Prince Tristan and a collection of lusty poems from my English class.

Yet in the end, my thoughts return to food.

The stiff, proud stalk of an asparagus,

the erotically-shaped, briny muscle hidden inside the hard shell of an oyster,

the creamy texture of an avocado coating the tongue.

Food is sensual.

This deliciously inviting mussel resembles another muscle...no?

Lemongrass Green Mussels

2 pounds green-lipped mussels

1 can fish stock or clam stock

2 cups water

1 stalk lemongrass

1 shallot

1 lime (zest and juice)

1 tablespoon rice wine vinegar

1 tablespoon sugar (or piece of rock sugar)

1 teaspoon salt

1 inch nub of fresh ginger

1 tablespoon of sesame oil

2 clove garlic

3 stalks green onion (only green part)

1 serrano pepper

1 teaspoon grated fresh ginger

salt

I love green-lipped mussels. They're so much meatier and tastier than the smaller P.E.I. mussels. Every time I see them at Whole Foods, I buy every last green-lipped mussel they have. This is my favorite way of preparing them. The Thai-inspired broth is deliciously lemony and fresh with a spicy heat from the serrano pepper.

1. Cut the stalk of lemongrass into pieces, dice the shallot, zest and juice the lime, and cut ginger into large slices. Combine with fish stock, water, rice wine vinegar, salt, and sugar. Bring to boil and reduce by a third.

2. While the broth is reducing, clean and de-beard the mussels.

3. Strain the reduce broth through a sieve and reserve.

4. In a large pot, saute minced garlic, sliced serrano pepper, and grated ginger in the sesame oil. Add the mussels to the pot with some salt. Transfer some of the broth to the pot with the mussels. Add enough to cover the mussels only halfway. Cover and let the mussels cook until they open.

5. Plate in a shallow bowl along with some broth and enjoy with someone you love.

Blue Plate Oysterette, Santa Monica

While planning a weekday shopping trip to 3rd Street Promenade in Santa Monica, I also had to decide on the perfect spot for a nice lunch. First instinct was Anisette Brasserie--I've been wanting to try it but hadn't had a chance to yet--but uncharacteristically, my usual default towards french food was overpowered by my discovery of this little oyster bar serving up east-coast style lobster rolls.

Blue Plate Oysterette

1355 Ocean Avenue

Santa Monica, CA 90402

Blackboard of daily fresh fish and available oysters and clams

The chef was frying up cod non-stop the entire time I was there--the fish and chips was a popular dish and it looked delicious

Kushi and Bahia Falsa Oysters on the Half-Shell

served with mignonette and cocktail sauce

I usually only put a nice squeeze on my oysters but the cocktail sauce was very good and addicting. I knew I wanted some of the Kushi oysters (of the Kumamoto variety) and the waitress also suggested the Bahia Falsa oysters which had a nice cucumber finish. I have to say, although they were very fresh, they were not as expertly shucked as I would've liked them to be--there were bits of shell in a few that I had. However, I believe this was due to the fact that they were extremely busy--an order for 36 oysters going in right before mine.

Initially, I was a little disappointed when my lobster roll arrived before my oysters. I was perfectly content letting my sandwich sit while I waited for my oysters. However, the general manger was extremely attentive and asked why I hadn't eaten my sandwich. When I told him the reason, he immediately made sure that my oysters would come out soon, and he took the sandwich back to refry my fries for me after I finished my oysters. Now THAT is quality restaurant service.

Lobster Roll

with brioche roll and Old Bay seasoned fries

The fries were very good and the lobster roll was one of the best I've ever had. I asked for light mayonnaise and it came with the perfect amount. The spices were good, there was a good amount of lobster meat, and the celery and red onion were cut into small enough pieces that the flavors all melded together. The brioche roll was also nicely toasted on both side.

The manager also had a little surprised for me at the end of my meal. As a result of the oyster-mix up and long wait, my delicious half dozen oysters were on the house! Sigh, what service! Enough to make a girl swoon!

will definitely be back again!

Stillwater Cove

Stillwater Bar & Grill

at The Lodge at Pebble Beach

1700 17-Mile Drive

Pebble Beach, CA 93953

Our first night at the Lodge, we had dinner at the Stillwater Bar & Grill. I had been craving oysters ever since I returned from Paris so I jumped at the chance of ordering some. They were delicious but not the best I've ever had. However, the arugula salad I had was amazing. The subtle hint of the vanilla bean in the vinaigrette was beautifully fragrant and complemented the grapes perfectly. Definitely the most memorable part of the meal. The manhattan clam chowder was flavorful but a bit too salty for my taste and the ahi tuna was well cooked but not anything special. The dessert, however, definitely satisfied the chocolate craving my mom and I had. I almost wanted to eat the rich chocolate sauce directly out of its cute little pitcher.

Atlantic & Pacific Oysters on the Half Shell

with Champagne Mignonette

Stillwater Red Clam Chowder

Little Neck Clams, Tomato Broth, Applewood Smoked Bacon, Garlic Bread

Wild Arugula & D'Anjou Pear Salad

Almond Brittle Crisp, California Red Grape with Tahitian Vanilla Bean Vinaigrette

Rare Seared Yelllowfin Tuna

Young Spinach, Charred Corn Relish, Bagna Cauda

Warm Chocolate Cake

with Raspberry Chocolate Sauce and Vanilla Bean Ice Cream