Ludo Bites 4.0 (The Final Night)

It was a dream come true when Kevin of kevinEats invited me to the final night of LudoBites 4.0. Not only would I be able to sample Ludo's newest creations, but I would now have perfect bookends to the whole LudoBites 4.0 experience. I would be able to compare and contrast the dishes I had at the pre-opening night FoodDigger event with the dishes on the menu for the final night. Some dishes evolved into even better creations, some dishes didn't. Some got booted off the menu and others got added on to the list of innovative offerings. Of course, we had to sample the entire menu :)

LudoBites 4.0

The Final Night

@Gram and Papa's

227 East 9th Street

Los Angeles, CA 90015

http://www.ludolefebvre.com/ludo-bites

Tartine Plate "Warm Baguette" Honey-Lavender Butter & Smoked Lard [$4]

Mmm warm crusty bread is the best way to start off a meal. This time, the lavender ended up in the butter with some honey, adding sweetness. The combination of floral-y lavender and sweet honey was a little too overwhelming for me. The lard had an intense smoked flavor. I found both flavors to be pretty strong and as a result, could not eat very much of either. I'm a much bigger fan of the lavender lard I had at the first dinner--I wanted to moisturize myself with that stuff.

Brie Chantilly, Honey Comb, Balsamic [$7]

I also enjoyed the brie dish a lot more last time. This may be because of a few reasons: 1) The brie was sandwiched between two slices of crostini the first time I had it. This time the brie to crostini ratio was a little off. There was too much brie and not enough crunch 2) The frisée salad was a lot more peppery the first time--providing a better contrast to the extremely rich and creamy brie 3) Also, a drizzle of balsamic vinegar > a little dollop

Dorade Ceviche, Heirloom Tomato, Spring Onions, Lemon Honey Paste [$14]

This was one of dishes that was more visually appealing than anything else. It was so beautiful I couldn't stop snapping pictures of it. My first bite was extremely flavorful--spicy and acidic yet sweet from the lemon honey paste. My second bite included a piece of jalapeño. Then I couldn't taste anything for the rest of this dish.

Marinated King Salmon, Red Wine Vinaigrette, Crème Fraiche [$15]

I liked the vinaigrette on this dish. It was bright and acidic. However, I thought it would've been a little boring if it weren't for the crème fraiche. I liked how it made the salmon taste creamy and rich.

Veal Tartar, Oysters, Almond Oil, Seaweed, Tonnato Sauce [$14]

Fishy. That's all I have to say. The tonnato sauce was definitely very fishy--as it should be? But what about the veal tartar? The oysters? Honestly, couldn't really distinguish between the two. All I could taste was the sauce. However, once again, it was a beautifully plated dish...maybe I just like those flowers?

Foie Gras, Green Cabbage, Kimchi Consommé, Pickled Turnips, Sesame Oil [$26]

Hands down my favorite dish of the night. Although this dish was not the prettiest we had that night, it's flavor profile was one that I enjoyed the most. The dish as a whole was complex and deep. The perfectly cooked cabbage (soggy cabbage is the worst) was wrapped around a piece of creamy foie gras, sitting in a pool of consommé that had flavors reminiscent of wonton soup (good wonton soup). Now that I'm thinking about it, it probably reminded us of wonton soup because there was sesame oil in the dish. I also loved the lightly pickled turnips--not acidic enough to overpower the foie gras, but just pickled enough to alter the texture of the turnips a little bit. Even after we demolished the piece of foie, we were all still dipping our spoons back in the bowl for that last drop of consommé--now even richer from the foie that escaped from the cabbage.

Santa Barbara Prawn, Avocado, Passion Fruit, Cocktail Sauce [$28]

I actually enjoyed this dish. Some people found the prawns to be a little too cold but I didn't mind. I found them to be pleasantly citrusy as well. What really caught me off guard was the guacamole. I didn't expect it to be frozen shavings of guacamole! Looks are deceiving! It was surprisingly cold and kind of melted on my tongue. Such an interesting sensation. Sadly, I didn't get much passion fruit out of the dish...

Crispy Soft Shell Crab Cone, Spicy Mayo, Mango, Corona Granite [$19]

I really wanted to love this dish. I couldn't. It reminded me too much of fusion sushi which I am not a proponent of. Of course, Ryan pointed out that "Spicy Mayo" and "Soft Shell Crab" was in the dish description. What was I expecting? I'm not sure but somehow I thought it be a lot better. I will say though, the sweet, crunchy sesame tuile-like cone was tasty and the corona granite was refreshing. The number on the paper cup? I guess we were the lucky recipients of the 327th crab cone.

Ham Soup, Bread, Swiss Cheese, Radish Cornichon, Guiness [$12]

This soup literally tasted like a liquified ham sandwich with a side of dill pickle. The first bite I took consisted only of some soup and some pickled radish. It was only okay. Then my spoon happened to run into a little floating island of bread and melted cheese. That bite was definitely a lot better. In fact, I wouldn't mind another bowl to myself right now. I feel like I dismissed this dish too quickly. If I could just have some more piece of crusty bread and melty cheese floating in that bowl...

Foie Gras Black Croque-Monsieur, Cherry-Amaretto Chutney [$29]

Drooool. I would do almost anything for another one of these croque monsieurs right now. I found the cherry-amaretto chutney worked so much better than the lemon-turnip chutney I had the first night. The combination of the sweet cherry chutney, creamy foie gras, crunchy bread, and salty prosciutto was amazing. This is the one dish that I enjoyed even more than I did the first time I had it.

Boudin Noir Terrine, Apple Purée, Wasabi [$12]

Thank goodness we were a table of five. I could not have finished this dish on my own if you paid me. It was definitely VERY rich. It was my first time having any kind of boudin noir, and I can't say I loved it. I can't say it's pleasant on the eyes either. However, I got some interesting hints of nuttiness from it--like pistachio or hazelnut. Not sure why. The apple purée was a little bit sweet for me, but I really enjoyed the heat from the wasabi.

Squid "Carbonara", Pancetta, Poached Egg (63 degrees), Parmesan Snow, Chive Flowers [$18]

This was another dish that I had been lusting over that failed to live up to my expectations. Of course, anything with a poached egg can't be bad but this was just a little bland for me. Without the fatty chunks of pancetta, the squid was a little flavorless to me. The only bite that was good for me was the one with pancetta--too bad there were only like three pieces of it.

Monkfish, Baby Carrots, Carrot-Orange Coulis, Exotic Spices [$26]

The monkfish was the only dish that completely did not work for me that night. The coulis was way too sweet. I love the combination of carrot and orange...but usually in my Jamba Juice, not drizzled over my seafood.

Fried Chicken, Coconut Polenta, Grilled Baby Corn, Diablo Sauce [$18]

Sadly, I've missed every previous opportunity to have Ludo's fried chicken. I applaud those who waited in line for hours just for these balls of meaty goodness. I don't know if I would do that. Sure they were good--mainly because I enjoy dark meat a whole lot more than white meat--but they were so salty! Luckily the coconut polenta and grilled baby corn tempered that saltiness. I loved the coconut polenta--the essence of coconut was faint but it was there. Usually I dont enjoy baby corn, but it worked well with the fried chicken. The diablo sauce was pleasantly tangy and spicy but I didn't really need it. Overall, I'm glad I finally got to try Ludo's balls. They were just a little salty... uuhh that was awkward.

Rack of Lamb, Fresh Goat Cheese, Dried Bonito, Artichokes, Potato Mousseline, Mint [$26]

Was not blown away by this lamb. It wasn't as tender as I was hoping it would be, and there was almost more fat than meat on this thing. However, I've recently discovered my love for fresh goat cheese, and I loved the pairing of goat cheese with lamb. Most importantly, I enjoyed Ludo's potato mousseline MORE than I enjoyed Robuchon's pomme purée. Don't tell Robuchon!

Braised Beef Cheeks, Escargot Red Wine Butter, Leek Salad, Roasted Eggplant [$19]

Another dish that wasn't pretty to look at or photograph, but tasted pretty good. Initially I didn't realize that within that mound of darkness, there would be piece of tender escargot. Then my fork found some chunks of snail, and I forgave the ridiculously salty cube of reduced black currant and beef cheek juice. Ahh escargot :) so delicious. Oh and that smear of blackness of the plate? It tasted like smoke. Literally.

Organic Strawberry, Vanilla Whipped Cream & Lemon Verbena-Meringue [$12]

I enjoyed this dessert more than the soufflé. Although that giant cloud of whipped cream might be a little intimidating, underneath were some beautifully fresh strawberries and chewy, quartered macarons. If I happen to have a failed batch of macarons in the future, this is what I'm going to do with them. **I forgot to mention the pop rocks in this dessert! I've noticed that the use of pop rocks in desserts is becoming exceedingly popular. I've seen it used by Joël Robuchon and at Petrossian. This was my first time experiencing the crackling sensation of pop rocks popping in my mouth in a dessert course and it was awesome! It works surprisingly well**

Dark Chocolate Soufflé, Vanilla Whipped Cream, Hot Chocolate Cream [$13]

The black pepper ice cream that was paired with the soufflé I had the first night was definitely more innovative. I loved the spice it added to the chocolate. This hot chocolate cream just blended right into the soufflé. I couldn't even tell it was there. Tasty, but my heart belongs to Ramon's soufflé now.

As a whole, I would have to say I enjoyed the dishes from the final night more than the first night. Of course, I now knew a little more of what to expect from Ludo, and thus was not as surprised by the dishes as I was the first night. So in that respect, there was less of the intrigue and surprise. However, I definitely felt that there was a better variety of flavors and textures this time around. Not everything was saturated in fat and butter. There were a few lighter dishes. Not many, but a few. My only gripe? Everything was a little too salty for me.

I was also dining in great company that night. Thanks to Ryan of Epicuryan...after all, it was his reservation and to Kevin for inviting me. It was also a pleasure to meet Cynthia of Cookie Chomper and Carina of Uncouth Gourmands. Of course, the fact that we were all food bloggers led to this lovely tweeted iPhone photo--courtesy of a slightly unhappy Chef Ludo. Yes, sometimes the food got a little cold but come on...there were 5 of us!

Désolé :)

LudoBites 4.0

After an hour long bus ride on the Metro Rapid 720 during rush hour armed with only an iced Grande Starbucks Americano and the newest issue of Vanity Fair, I finally arrived at 6th and Main in Downtown L.A. The stiff as granite suspension on the Metro Rapid didn't make the ride particularly pleasant. I think at one point I actually felt my brains rattling inside my skull. However, LudoBites was calling to me and I would've made the trek downtown even if I was severely jet-lagged and running on 3 hours sleep...oh wait, I was.

Luckily, the trip was more than worth it. I felt so fortunate to have been invited to the FoodDigger event and to have been one of the first to taste some of Ludo Lefebvre's newest dishes for LudoBites 4.0. On top of that, Domaine LA was there to make some of the best wine pairings I've ever had.

LudoBites latest reincarnation is housed at Gram and Papa's in Downtown L.A. I wish I had taken a picture of the restaurant from the outside but the area it was in had seemed a little scary to me. Once I was inside the perfectly cozy restaurant, I was hesitant to leave the safe haven of amiable food bloggers and bubbly champagne for the slightly shady-looking street outside. Ludo himself said that while there is plenty of parking on the street, "wear a bullet-proof vest when you come here." I'm sure he was just kidding...

Like LudoBites 3.0 at Royal T, Krissy had set up a light box for us camera-toting bloggers. I had never used one before, and I was very curious to try it. In the end, I'm not sure if I liked it as much as I thought I would. I was initially going to post both the pictures I took in the light box and the ones at the table yet somehow, in the end, the dimly lit table pictures still didn't stack up to the clean, bright, if not slightly sterile, pictures in the light box.

The lovely Tsz, also taking advantage of the light box. We sat across from each other at the table and our food-related conversations and mutual oohs and aahs as each course arrived made dinner even more enjoyable. I am entirely convinced that eating is always better when eating with someone who also enjoys eating. Last night, I was surrounded by people who all enjoy and appreciate food as much as I do. It was amazing.

Before we started eating, Matt of FoodDigger kept warning us to "keep an open mind." Although this was my first time at LudoBites, I knew Ludo was creative and that he wasn't scared of making innovative flavor profiles. I was more than ready. Bring it on.

LudoBites 4.0

@ Gram and Papa's

227 East 9th Street
Los Angeles, CA 90015
http://www.ludolefebvre.com/ludo-bites

Tartine Plate "Three Fat Textures"

NV Domaine Clavelin, Cremant du Jura, "Brut-Comté," France

By the time we sat down, I was starving and a little warm from the champagne we were welcomed with. A large piece of fleur de sel baguette wrapped in parchment paper was set down in front of me, and I had to try to not pick the whole thing up and tear right into it. I am a lady, thank you. Instead, I broke a little piece of the crusty, yet chewy, baguette and carefully spread some of the lavender-infused lard on it. I was not prepared for how absolutely amazing that lard was. Lavender reminds me of soap, so this should've been like soapy lard. Instead, my tongue encountered the lusciously smooth texture of lard with a pleasant and exciting floral scent. The whipped brown butter and the Chablis(?) clarified butter that rounded out the "Three Fat Textures" were also very good. However, the lard was amazing. I almost wanted to rub it all over my body like lavender-scented body butter...don't tell.

Carrot Salad, Saffron Anglaise Cream, Pearl Onions, Citrus, Mustard Powder

2009 Donkey & Goat, Rosé of Grenache Gris, California

This was perhaps the only dish of the night that was light and clean-tasting. The saffron anglaise cream was actually not very rich. The whole thing was very citrusy, with the carrot shavings cryovac-ed in orange juice and orange blossom water. The torched pieces of carrots were first cooked in carrot juice. The pearl onions were pickles and added a very much needed punch. The citrus pieces, also cryovac-ed could be eaten whole--with the pith and zest--but were a little bitter. Overall, it was very interesting interpretation ordinarily boring carrot salad. The rosé that was paired with this dish was also very nice.

Egg, Potato Mousseline, Lobster, Borage Flower

2009 Bedrock Rine Company, Compagni Portis Vineyard, "Heirloom White," California

Although it may been simple in appearance, this was without a doubt my favorite--and many other people's favorite--of the night. It was sublime. Simply amazing. The potato mousseline was at the perfect temperature to only slightly warm through the raw fresh lobster slices without cooking it. Break open the soft-boiled egg, mix it all together and the dish becomes even richer. Take a little bit of everything on your spoon and take a bite. Close your eyes and mmmm. Foodgasm.

Foie Gras Croque-Monsieur, Lemon Turnip Chutney

2008 Fremont, Cidre Brut Par Nature, "Greniers," France

Just the name foie gras croque-monsieur is enough to induce incontrollable drooling. This was one of the dishes that was simple a reincarnation of an already existing LudoBites creation. I was told that in it's previous life, it had a black cherry sauce to accompany it instead of the chutney. I took my first bite and as the crunchy squid ink bread broke into the creamy foie gras and salty procuitto inside, I could not help but let out an irrepressible sigh of contentment. I guess the sigh was a little louder and the look of contentment a little more noticeable than I had intended it to be because I opened my eyes to the seasoned croque-monsieur veterans of the table looking on knowingly with a smile on their faces. They knew what I had just experienced. The cider worked to enhance the unctuousness of the liver in a very very good way and was one of my favorite pairings of the night.

Burgundy Escargots, Garlic Flan, Green Jus, Yellow Flowers

2008 Benaza Godello, Spain

This was the only dish of the night that I really did not enjoy very much. Before the dish arrived, I saw Ludo taking a taste of the green jus and contemplating it for the longest time with the oddest expression. I noticed Krissy was also looking at him and we both watched with bated breath--not knowing if he liked it. I still don't know. Perhaps the foie gras croque-monsieur was so good it was impossible to follow it. Perhaps this course came too late in the meal. All I know is, it was a way too rich and creamy for me at that point. While I did receive a piece of escargot that was tender and perfectly chewy, the rest of them seemed a little tough and overcooked. The entire dish was just very "one-note." All I could taste was garlic creaminess. Unfortunately, I think I would take a traditional escargot bourguignon over this.

Columbian River King Salmon Confit, Spring Cabbage, Orange Skin & Juniper Berries

2007 Palaacios Mencia, "Petalos," Spain

The wild salmon was poached in olive oil at 58 degrees before having its skin seared to a perfect crisp. Through this method, the resulting fish meat had an almost creamy, oily texture. It was perfectly cooked. The red cabbage and red wine purée spooned on the side of the dish provided not only a beautiful visual contrast, but also the perfect slightly sour accompaniment to the sweet cabbage and salmon meat. On the other hand, the lemon agar agar did absolutely nothing for me. Its texture was a little odd.

Poached Jidori Chicken, Crispy Skin with Hazelnuts, Garden Vegetables, Bacon Royale

2008 Benaza Godello, Spain

The poached chicken was perfectly cooked, the crispy skin on top absolutely amazing. I loved the shelled peas. I love fresh peas. The bacon royal was, again, way too rich for me at this point in the meal. I was already feeling extremely full from all the food and wine so I don't think I was able to fully appreciate the dish. I think if I had been half as full as I was, I would've enjoyed it a lot more.

Brie Chantilly Napoleon, Honey Comb, Balsamic, Frisée Salad

2006 Jo Pithon "Les 4 Villages," Coteaux du Layon, France

This is THE BEST cheese course I have EVER had. It was absolutely amazing. Words cannot describe how much I enjoyed this. The crisp creamy tower of crostini, salty brie (whipped by hand for 2 hours) and peppery frisée salad was amazing enough on its own. Add a little bit of the sweet thick balsamic vinegar and floral honey comb...cheese HEAVEN. And I'm not done. My dining companions then indicated that I should drink some of the wine with it. I had been so absorbed in trying to make the dish last as long as possible, I had forgotten about the wine. The sweet dessert wine paired with this cheese course added another unbelievable facet to this already fabulous dish. I didn't think it could get any better. It did.

Dark Chocolate Soufflé, Black Pepper Milk Chocolate Ice Cream, Chocolate Cream

2003 Pietri-Geraud Banyuls, "Cuvée Méditerranée," France

The soufflé was beautiful. I got a picture of it seconds after it came out of the open piping hot so it was still standing tall. Look at that proud soufflé, rising above the crown of the ramekin. Once the peppery ice cream and chocolate cream was mixed into it, it definitely had something to be proud of. The milk chocolate ice cream provided such an intense spice and warm heat to the soufflée. It was mind-blowing. But it was also, again, incredibly rich. I only took a few bites and was already fully content.

Ludo was obviously still getting used to the kitchen and his assistants. Even in a new environment, he was still able to create dishes that blew my mind in terms of flavor and textures. I now understand the fascination and obesession with Ludo and LudoBites. It's not that the dishes he creates are perfected and pleasing to the palate--it is that they're new and inventive and that they challenge the way we think about food. In his own words, "It's my house. I do what I want."

The most amazing thing was that, in his opinion, the dishes he served us were "conservative." When asked what he would cook for himself, he said that he would make dishes that were more "provocative." Man, I wish I could see what "provocative" cooking would entail.

I just want to say thank you to FoodDigger again for putting on such an amazing event. I'm so glad I got to be a part of it. It's always lovely to meet follow foodies!

Also a big thank you to Domaine LA!

And because it was so much fun with fantastic food, free-flowing wine, and amazing company, I forgive you, FoodDigger, for misspelling my name ;) I had to use the magic of Photoshop. And I forgive you, Ludo, for chucking that pansy at my head. I know that it was probably mistake and aimed for someone else...I think...

LudoBites, je t'aime:)